Gravel gardens work best in full sun with good natural drainage. Most drought-tolerant plants — lavender, sedum, ornamental grasses, coneflowers — need at least 6 hours of direct sun per day. Before starting, check your soil drainage: dig a hole 12 inches deep, fill with water, and check how long it takes to drain. If water is still standing after 4 hours, you may need to improve drainage before proceeding.

• Choose the sunniest, driest part of your yard for best results.
• Avoid low spots where water pools — drainage is essential.
• South- and west-facing slopes work especially well.
• Existing trees and shrubs can stay — just clear soil and mulch from around their crowns.

Before laying gravel, remove all existing vegetation — mechanically if possible. A clean edge around the perimeter is non-negotiable: without it, gravel migrates into the lawn and weeds invade from the edges. Medium-size stones, large boulders, metal landscape edging, stone pavers, or even the foundation of a building all work well as borders.

• Remove turf and weeds down to bare soil — no herbicide membrane needed if gravel depth is correct.
• Check soil organic content: it should be 3–5%. Add a light compost amendment if very poor.
• Install a permanent, solid border tall enough to contain 4–5 inches of gravel.
• Drive depth-gauge stakes every 4–5 feet to ensure consistent gravel depth as you spread.

Not all gravel is equal. The type you choose affects drainage, plant performance, aesthetics, and how easily it migrates around the yard. Pea gravel and granite are the most popular choices, but local stone is always the best option — it ties the garden into its landscape context and has a lower carbon footprint.

Depth is the most critical technical detail in gravel gardening. Too shallow and weed roots reach the soil below; too deep and plants perform poorly. The target is exactly 4–5 inches of gravel across the entire bed — consistent depth right up to the edges.

• Spread gravel evenly using a rake, checking against your depth stakes.
• 4–5 inches of coverage is the weed-suppression threshold — do not compromise on this.
• For a mulch-only approach (not full xeriscaping), a half-inch of fine gravel around existing plants works well as an accent and moisture retainer.
• Larger accent rocks can be placed as design features throughout — they add visual weight and texture.

Plant selection is where a gravel garden goes from functional to stunning. Cluster plants with similar water needs together for efficient watering and a more natural, landscape-like appearance. Space plants slightly tighter than usual — the goal is full coverage of the gravel surface with vegetation over time.

• Use 4-inch or quart-size plants — they establish faster than large container plants in gravel conditions.
• Dig through the gravel into the soil below; plant at soil level, not gravel level.
• Water deeply every few days for the first 4–6 weeks of establishment, then back off.
• Group by water need: lavender and sedum together, coneflower and salvia together.

Once established, a gravel garden requires very little. The main tasks are topping up gravel as it settles or migrates (typically every 2–3 years), removing any weeds that push through in the first year, and cutting back perennials in early spring before new growth begins.

• Weed in year one when weeds are small — the gravel makes hand-pulling easy.
• Cut perennials back to 4–6 inches in late winter/early spring.
• Top up gravel depth every 2–3 years to maintain the 4–5 inch weed-suppression layer.
• No fertilizing needed once plants are established — gravel garden plants prefer lean soil.